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Old Lyon and its traboules

Old Lyon, at the foot of Fourvière hill, is one of Europe's largest Renaissance districts. Made France's first protected heritage area in 1964, it is famous for its traboules, covered passages that run through buildings.

A district born of fairs and banking

At the end of the 15th century, great fairs drew merchants from across Europe, and Italian banking families such as the Gadagne settled around Saint-Jean. Lyon also became a major printing centre. This wealth built the mansions still admired today.

Four fairs a year

Four fortnight-long fairs punctuated the year. Merchants enjoyed privileges: no tax on goods in transit, exemption from the taille, the city's protection and commercial justice to settle disputes. Spices, silks, cloth, metals and goods from northern Europe and the Mediterranean were sold.

A European financial centre

Each trade fair was followed by a fortnight devoted to exchange: bills of exchange were accepted, rates set and payments settled. Lyon's banks lent to the kings of France, financed expeditions such as Verrazzano's to North America (1523) and already offered marine insurance contracts.

Italian-style architecture

Narrow streets, houses of three to five storeys, pink or ochre façades, mullioned windows. Behind the doors, courtyards reveal wells, stair towers and open galleries. The whole forms part of Lyon's historic site, listed by UNESCO in 1998.

The traboules

The word comes from the Latin trans ambulare, “to pass through”. These vaulted corridors link one street to another through courtyards and buildings. Only some are open to the public: respect residents, keep your voice down and ask the tourist office. The slopes of the Croix-Rousse have traboules too.

A district saved

In the 1960s the run-down district was meant to make way for a fast road. The association Renaissance du Vieux Lyon and the Malraux law saved it, and it became France's first protected heritage area.

Updated 25 October 2026.